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RV Shows Schedule For February – September 2010. USA and CanadaRV Show Events
RV Shows present a great opportunity to see many 2010 RV – recreational vehicles without driving from RV dealer to RV dealer. Most RV shows charge a modest admission, but for most RVers it’s a modest investment for the opportunity to see such a wide-range of motorhomes, travel trailers, fifth wheels, truck campers and even pop up trailers in one place, often at special “show prices.” Some of the bargains are real, others are simply prices an RV dealer would likely accept back at the dealership from an RV buyer with sharp negotiation sales.
Flint Camper & RV Show
February 4 – 7, 2010
Perani Arena & Event Center
Flint, MI
Cincinnati RV Super Show
February 5 – 7, 2010
Wall 2 Wall Sports Complex
Mason, OH
Detroit Camper & RV Show
February 10 – 14, 2010
Rock Financial Showplace
Novi, MI
Edmonton RV Exposition & Sale
February 11 – 14, 2010
Northlands Agricom
Edmonton, AB (CANADA)
Minneapolis/St. Paul RV, Vacation & Camping Show
February 11 – 14, 2010
Minneapolis Convention Center
Minneapolis, MN
Richmond Camping RV Expo
February 12 – 14, 2010
Richmond Raceway Complex
Richmond, VA
Arkansas RV Show
February 12 – 14, 2010
Little Rock’s Statehouse Convention Center
Little Rock, AR
Red Deer RV Show
February 12 – 15, 2010
Westerner Park
Red Deer, AB (CANADA)
Northeast RV Show
February 12 – 15, 2010
Rockland Community College Field House
Suffern, NY
Springfield RV, Camping and Outdoor Show
February 12 – 15, 2010
Eastern States Exposition Grounds
West Springfield, MA
Grand Rapids Boat Show
February 17 – 22, 2010
DeVos Place
Grand Rapids, MI
West Palm Beach RV Show
February 18 – 21, 2010
South Florida Fairgrounds
West Palm Beach, FL
Kansas Sports, Boat & Travel Show
February 18 – 21, 2010
Kansas Coliseum
Wichita, KS
Central Florida RV Show
February 18 – 21, 2010
Volusia County Fairgrounds
Jacksonville, FL
North Carolina RV & Camping Show
February 19 – 21, 2010
Charlotte Convention Center
Charlotte, NC
Maryland Spring RV Show
February 19-21 & February 26 -28, 2010
Maryland State Fairgrounds
Timonium, MD
Las Vegas Sportsmen’s RV & Travel Show
February 19 – 21, 2010
Cashman Center
Las Vegas, NV
Central Texas RV Super Show
February 19 – 21, 2010
Bell County Expo Denter
Belton, TX
Jacksonville RV Show
February 25 – 28, 2010
Jacksonville Equestrian Center
Jacksonville, FL
Northern Kentucky Camper Show
Feb. 26 – 28, 2010
Northern Kentucky Convention Center
Covington, KY
Rhode Island RV & Camping Show
February 26 – 28, 2010
Rhode Island Convention Center
Providence, RI
North Carolina RV & Camping Show
February 26 – 28, 2010
North Carolina State Fairgrounds
Raleigh, NC
Colorado RV, Sports, Boat & Travel Show
March 4 – 7,2010
National Western Complex
Denver, CO
Colorado RV, Sports, Boat & Travel Show
March 4 – 7,2010
National Western Complex
Denver, CO
Atlantic City RV & Camping Show
March 5 – 7, 2010
Atlantic City Convention Center
Atlantic City, NJ
New Orleans Spring RV & Camping Show
March 5 – 7, 2010
Pontchartrain Center
Kenner, LA
Virginia RV Show
March 12 – 14, 2010
Hampton Roads Convention Center
Hampton, VA
Columbus RV Super Show
March 12 – 14, 2010
Ohio Expo Center
Columbus, OH
Campers World RV Show
March 12 – 14, 2010
York Expo Center
York, PA
Acadiana RV & Camping Show
March 19 – 21, 2010
Cajun Field
Lafayette, LA
Central New England RV & Camping Show
March 19 -21, 2010
Worcester, MA
Nashville RV, Boat & Motorcycle Super Show
April 2 – 4, 2010
Tennessee Miller Coliseum
Murfreesboro, TN
Pomona RV & Travel Show
April 8 – 11, 2010
Pomona Fairplex
Pomona, CA
Iowa RV & Travel Show
April 9 – 11, 2010
Iowa Events Center – Hyvee Hall
Des Moines, IA
ATD Convention & Expo
April 24 – April 26, 2010
Gaylord Palms
Orlando, FL
Tampa Bay Summer RV Show
May 13 – 16, 2010
Florida State Fairgrounds
Tampa, FL
Atlanta Camping & RV Show
September 17 – 19, 2010
Atlanta Expo Center South
Atlanta, GA
East Texas RV Super Show
September 24 – 26, 2010
Ford Park
Beaumont, TX
Highlights of Winnebago RV Industries’ new 2010 lineup
Winnebago Industries, the nation’s top-selling motorhome manufacturer, unveiled its 2010 lineup at the Company’s Winnebago Itasca Travelers Club Grand National Rally. This year’s lineup has a more concentrated effort on fuel efficient vehicles, unique and innovative floorplans, dynamic styling as well as a stronger diesel presence.
“Our 2010 model lineup is without a doubt the best we’ve ever offered, and what better group to show it to first than our own, loyal owners,” said Winnebago Industries’ Chairman of the Board, CEO and President Bob Olson. “From top to bottom we’ve raised the bar in creating innovative products with exciting floorplans and features with an emphasis on form, function and styling.
We’ve added diesel availability to our entire Class A lineup including the amazingly fuel efficient Winnebago Via and Itasca Reyo – the first Class A coaches built on the Dodge/Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis. Add in our industry leading Class C products, and our 2010 lineup has something for everyone.”
Highlights of Winnebago Industries’ new 2010 lineup include:
Fuel efficient Winnebago Via and Itasca Reyo – The Winnebago Via and Itasca Reyo are the first Class A diesel motor homes built on the fuel efficient Dodge/Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis. These 25-foot, fresh, innovative and fully equipped motor homes are slated to provide the highest fuel efficiency currently available in a Class A motor home, along with superior handling and maneuverability.
Top-of-the-line Class A diesel Winnebago Tour and Itasca Ellipse - The premium 2010 Tour and Ellipse go to new lengths this year with three new floorplans and one modified floorplan, complete with an exciting new 42-foot tag axle model. The quad-slide 42AD is feature-filled with such highlights as a unique sectional sofa, 40-inch LCD TV, fully equipped galley and upscale cab area including UltraLeather cab seats with a new heated seat option for 2010.
Winnebago Vista and Itasca Sunstar - Enhanced interior styling and an all-new exterior look are just two of the features of the totally-redesigned Vista and Sunstar for 2010. These value priced Class A motor homes even offer a front engine diesel option for improved mileage, as well as a new 30W floorplan for 2010.
Increased fuel efficiency for Winnebago Sightseer and Itasca Sunova – Winnebago Industries’ most popular Class A product lines, the Winnebago Sightseer and Itasca Sunova, were taken to a new level for 2010 with enhanced exterior and interior styling and the added availability of a front engine diesel option for greater fuel efficiency. The Sightseer and Sunova are available in four floorplans, including a new 33-foot model for 2010.
New model offerings in Winnebago Journey, Journey Express and Itasca Meridian, Meridian V Class - The diesel Winnebago Journey and Itasca Meridian, as well as the new Winnebago Journey Express and Itasca Meridian V Class form an unbeatable combination in 2010. Each features two exciting floorplans and a host of key features. The new Journey Express and Meridian V Class are value leaders, while the Journey and Meridian are built on Winnebago Industries’ Maxum chassis and offer maximum storage and a host of floorplan configurations for true floorplan flexibility.
Unbeatable Winnebago Adventurer and Itasca Suncruiser - The Winnebago Adventurer and Itasca Suncruiser lines are an RVer’s dream and will be hard to beat with five exciting floorplans, three of which are new or modified for 2010. Well rounded chassis selections give the Adventurer and Suncruiser even broader appeal with a selection of Ford, Workhorse and new for 2010, is the availability of Freightliner’s popular front engine diesel (FRED) chassis on particular models.
New Winnebago View Profile – This Sprinter chassis based “low-profile” Class C combines innovative design, creative use of space and fuel efficiency in a compact package that delivers full-size comfort and livability.
“Prior to this retail unveiling, our dealer body was introduced to the new lineup, and the feedback we’ve received has been overwhelmingly positive,” said Olson.
“I’m amazed and excited to see that Winnebago Industries was able to invest so aggressively in new product design for 2010,” said Lindsay Reines, president of Reines RV, Manassas, Va. “We assumed manufacturers would simply re-label 2009 as 2010 in light of current market conditions.”
“I’m real excited about the new products, especially the Via and Reyo on the Sprinter cowl chassis,” said Franklin Jackson of John Bleakley RV Center, Douglasville, Ga. “I think these products will be great for our customers looking for an economical and smaller Class A. The new Journey Express and Meridian V Class look great too, and the new 42-foot Tour and Ellipse will be sure to be a hit.” Source: http://www.roamingtimes.com
RV Waste Holding Tank Dumping Instructions RV Waste Water System Care & Maintenance
The wastewater system inside the recreational vehicle is self-contained, while on the road or set up in a campsite. The main parts of the waste system are the toilet, holding tanks and tank dump valves. As in residential households, the drainage system also includes p-traps and roof vents to allow escape of odors and gases.
RV Waste Holding Tanks
Waste water is divided into two categories: Black water and gray water. The term black water refers to the waste flushed down the toilet and stored in a separate tank*, referred to as the black tank. Gray water is the wastewater from the sinks, tub and shower drains and is stored within one (or more) gray tank(s). Waste tanks empty through a single outlet, but a separate valve controls each tank.
The dump valves should remain closed even if connected to an exterior sewer hook up. For proper dumping, empty tanks only when they are nearly full. The idea is to send a large volume of water through the tanks and hose at the same time to assist the solid waste in flushing from the system.
RV Waste Holding Tank Dumping Instructions
1. Place the end of the sewer hose into an approved dump station inlet.
2. Twist off the termination outlet cap.
3. Connect the sewer hose by turning counterclockwise, locking the end levers over the termination end.
4. Open the black tank termination valve and drain.
5. Open the gray tank termination valve and drain. (If RV has 2 gray tanks, drain one at a time.)
6. Close termination valves.
7. Disconnect sewer hose and store.
8. Replace termination cap on the outlet.
9. Add chemical deodorant / breakdown agent approved for RV use.
After the sewage tank has been emptied, close the gate valves and put approximately five gallons of water in the sewage holding tanks. This will help prevent solids from building up. The addition of a deodorizing agent like Aqua-Kem® will help prevent odors.
RV Toilet
The toilet operates from water supplied either by the fresh water tank or from an exterior water supply connected to a campground water hook-up. (The water pump must be turned on when utilizing the water from the fresh water tank.)
The toilet flushes directly into the black water tank. You should find complete instructions and care for the model installed in your RV at the manufactures web site or by calling the company.
Solids Build-Up
The most common problem associated with the waste system is solids build up. Using plenty of water when flushing the toilet, and keeping the holding tank valves closed until ready to flush the system can reduce the risk of build up.
Should you ever have a build up of solids, close the valves, fill the tanks at least 3/4 full with fresh water, drive a drive a few miles to agitate the solids then drain the tanks.
Do not put these items in toilet
1. Facial tissues, paper towels, sanitary products (including those labeled flushable).
2. Detergents or bleach. Use a sewage tank deodorizer.
3. Automotive antifreeze, ammonia, alcohols, or acetones.
4. Grease from cooking, table scraps or other solids that may cause clogging.
Mounting
A trailer light can be mounted in many different fashions depending on the model, but the most common type simply mounts to the trailer via one or two bolts with a nut on each end. Manufactured trailers will have provisions and a specified spot for the trailer lights, but custom trailers must be outfitted with custom mounts that work with the style trailer light you wish to use. Also, check the local ordinances to see if trailer lights in your area are required to be mounted in a certain fashion, such as so many feet apart or at a specific height off the ground. Also, ensure that the light is waterproof if it will be going on a boat trailer, because when the boat is launched the trailer lights many times get wet or completely submerged.
Wiring
Each trailer light is wired directly into the corresponding side of the vehicle’s light wiring. In other words, the left turn, stop, and tail trailer light will be wired into the stop, turn, and tail electronics of the left tail light on the tow vehicle, and the same for the right side. For this reason, if there is something wrong with the tail wiring on the vehicle, the trailer lights will not work, either. If there is only a bulb out in the light assembly on the vehicle, the signals on the trailer light will still operate correctly in most cases. The trailer wiring is often set inside a plastic loom and routed either inside or very close to the frame of the trailer to avoid damage from pinches or road debris. It is always recommended to use 14 gauge or above wiring for the trailer lights, especially if the trailer is over 10 feet long. A thicker wire will create less resistance over a long distance.
Connectors
Of course, the trailer wiring is not attached directly to the electronics of the tow vehicle, or the trailer would be stuck on the hitch. It is separated by a connector that can be attached and removed quickly. The two most common types are a pigtail connector, which is a round hub that is usually attached to the hitch itself and has a cover on it for when not towing, and a 4-way flat connector, which disconnects just as easily, but is usually free-hanging or put into the trunk or hatch of the vehicle when the trailer is not in use. Both connectors provide the same function, and it is almost purely a matter of taste as to which one is chosen. The pigtail type connectors seem to be more prone to failure, but they do mount well and are easy to use.
Coupling and uncoupling a semi-truck and trailer is an essential skill for a truck driver. Nothing spells “bad day” like having a trailer slide off a fifth wheel at an intersection. However, as long as you follow the proper procedures, you can hook up a semi- truck to a trailer safely.
Step 1
Inspect the truck and trailer, following FMCSA guidelines. Ensure the trailer is road ready and can be safely hooked and towed down the highway. Verify the fifth wheel is in position and greased, with jaws released. If necessary, pull the release lever.
Step 2
Look for a kingpin lock. Most models have a tag that hangs down to flag their presence. Remove it, if necessary, or find someone who can. Most locks release with keys. Failure to remove a kingpin lock before backing under the trailer will prevent the trailer from hooking the kingpin and can damage your fifth wheel.
Step 3
Estimate the trailer’s height. You’re learning how to hook up a fifth wheel to a trailer, and it can take more than one try. Ideally, the trailer should touch the fifth wheel 6 inches from the bottom as you back underneath. Adjust the landing gear for proper height. If the semi is still too high, lower the suspension by dumping some air.
Step 4
Position the tractor in a straight line in front of the trailer, fifth wheel to trailer kingpin. You can hook a trailer from a skewed position, but it’s not recommended. Back up slightly under the nose of the trailer and set your tractor air brakes. Get out and reassess your position.
Step 5
Release your brakes and reposition the semi, if necessary. Back under the trailer until the kingpin slides into position. Keep your window rolled down and you’ll hear it snap into place.
Step 6
Test the integrity of the coupling by putting the semi in first gear and moving forward no more than 6 inches. If everything is hooked properly, you can feel the tractor strain as it pulls against the trailer. Set the tractor brakes and walk back to the fifth wheel. Verify that the kingpin has locked and the fifth wheel jaws have closed. The release arm must also be in the closed position. If anything is out of place, pull the release lever and repeat Steps 4 through 6.
Step 7
Couple the gladhands and electrical line. Raise the landing gear, and you’re ready to travel.
Fifth wheel RVs are the best handling, most secure recreational trailers on the road. They handle so much better than a standard travel trailer, there just is no comparison. With a properly set up fifth wheel, you can pull a 15,000-pound trailer all day long in comfort. You’ll rapidly get to the point where you will almost forget that your monster 3-axle, multi-slideout luxury condo is riding along behind you.
This easy towing might give one the opportunity for complacency in getting ready to hit the road.
But the last thing you want to see is your $75,000 trailer skittering down the highway on its own after the hitch popped open, turning it loose from your truck. Don’t laugh, it does happen, and if it happens to you, it will be expensive!
Here are some things you need to know about mounting and hooking up a fifth wheel hitch…
Mounting A 5th Wheel Hitch
When mounting a fifth wheel hitch in the bed of your pickup truck yourself, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations closely.
The location of the hitch should be such that the pin of the trailer is located just an inch or so ahead of the center point of the rear axle of your truck.
If you are mounting a secondhand hitch, be sure you have all of the mounting pieces. This includes the brackets that bolt under the box of your truck and tie the hitch directly to the frame of the truck. A pickup box is not designed to handle the load and stress of pulling a trailer.
Once you have everything mounted, the wiring hooked up, and you’re ready to hitch up the trailer, then you need to address how the trailer should be adjusted to match the truck height.
Most fifth wheel hitches are adjustable for height. Most fifth wheel trailer pins are also adjustable for height. It will require moving bolts to different locations to adjust the pin box up or down. Your goal should be to have the trailer nice and level when it’s hitched to the truck.
In some situations when a high ground clearance 4×4 truck is used, the axles of the trailer are removed and reinstalled on the underside of the springs. In my opinion, that’s not the wisest idea. Yes, it will level out the trailer, but it’s not how the axles were designed to be used. And, access into the trailer will be awkward as well. I would prefer selling the high truck and buying something better suited to towing your RV trailer.
Be concerned about how much clearance you have between the box of your truck and the underside of the upper portion of your trailer. If you have too little clearance, when you’re maneuvering over uneven terrain, the trailer may hit the sides of the truck.
How To Hook Up A 5th Wheel Hitch
Okay, now we’re ready to hitch up and hit the road.
A wise investment would be to replace the standard tailgate on your truck with one that is cut down so you can hitch up with the tailgate closed. Or you could even use a mesh cloth gate. Otherwise, the first time you forget to open your standard tailgate… after you pull ahead a foot, you will have ruined it by striking the 5th wheel pin of the trailer.
Before you back into the hitch, pull the release handle out to cock the hitch in the open position. As you back in and lightly tap it home, or all the way in, the handle will snap closed automatically.
The most important step is next: Get out of the truck, walk under the front of the trailer and visually confirm the jaws or bar (depending on which brand of hitch you have) snapped all the way shut.
The very next step is to lock down the safety lock on the hitch. This is critical, as the hitch — even when properly closed — can and will open unless the safety lock is in place.
My own experience with this came when I was moving my trailer just around the block to store it. As I pulled up the driveway and cleared the crest of the hill, the hitch popped open and the trailer dropped out of the hitch.
I was very lucky as my truck was a flat bed. I put a nice dent in the surface of the bed where the pin hit, but damaged nothing else. Many pickup boxes have been ruined when a fifth wheel trailer drops, as it will crush the sides of the box.
As far as the likelihood of your hitch breaking loose on the highway… your breakaway brakes are supposed to stop it. Unless you forgot to hook up the little cable. If that’s the case, when the hitch opens up, you’ve got a runaway rig!
Always think safety first. Don’t be afraid to check things over twice before you pull away. Take it from me. Been there, done that. Source: http://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2008/08/5th_wheel_hitch.php
Do-It-Yourself RV. Turning Your Mini Van Into An RV
A 2006 Toyota Sienna minivan can be converted with minimal effort from soccer-mom special to RV Lite
What do you do when your itch to travel extends for thousands of miles, but your budget won’t support all those nights in hotels? For a trip across the United States and back earlier this summer, my husband and I found the solution in an RV Lite — a Toyota Sienna minivan that we converted with little cost or effort into our own smaller, stripped-down version of the old Volkswagen Vanagons we remembered from the 1970s.
For years we’d played with the idea of buying a real recreational vehicle. But price tags were discouraging: $70,000 to $125,000 for either a motorized version we liked or a combination of a small but well-made trailer and a truck to pull it. We didn’t want to buy used, fearing breakdowns. And there was the issue of fuel economy, which loomed large after the oil shock of 2008.
So we downsized the dream.
Our Sienna is a standard 2006 model with three rows of seats. We removed the middle and back rows, which are bolted into place and can be easily reinstalled anytime, and were left with a large open space, about 4 feet 6 inches wide and 8 feet long.
The first six feet back became the cargo area by day and — with luggage moved to the front seats — the bedroom at night. We looked at folding cots and inflatable mattresses but settled on using two flip-out foam beds that we’d bought years ago for visiting children to sleep on. The van has vent-style back windows — good for ventilation at night — and lots of storage cubbies and cup holders that we stuffed with handy items. For lighting, we found solar lanterns that use D batteries as storage cells. Leaving them near a window in the daytime kept them charged up for nighttime use.
The van also has privacy glass: reflective windows that work like one-way mirrors to the outside, so that it’s difficult for anyone to see in. Still, we did put up a couple of curtains at night, hung on pressure rods.
We bought a tiny camp stove but never used it. Moving fast over a lot of territory replete with cheap restaurants, we decided not to fuss with hot meals. For cold food, like sandwiches and breakfast cereal with milk, we carried a picnic-style Coleman cooler advertised as keeping ice for five days in hot weather. It almost did.
And that left just one issue, the elephant in the room: plumbing.
Camping does not have to be primitive. Many campgrounds all over the country, both public and private, have clean, well maintained flush toilets and hot showers. Using Internet sites and camping guides (especially AAA camp books, which worked well for our needs), we stuck to these places. But still, most people also like something of their own.
Behind the area where we made up our beds, our van has a shallow well of space where the rear seats normally fold down. We chose to view this as a separate room: the bathroom. Fortunately, the technology of portable toilets is now impressive in two vital respects: ease of cleaning and discretion, both visual and olfactory. We purchased something called an Envirolet, from Sancor Industries of Toronto, a tad pricey but on the cutting edge of these advances. We also found a portable plastic sink, folding to briefcase size, with separate compartments for clean and gray water and even a tiny mirror.
An RV Lite wouldn’t work for some people: the plus-size family we once saw at an RV show, for example, who squeezed into a small trailer and joked that once in, they’d never get out. But for us, the minivan was cozy and functional. And, running at 25 to 30 miles per gallon, economical enough so that we felt no guilt at all about staying every third or fourth night in a hotel. By BARBARA IRELAND Published: August 30, 2009
RV Shows Schedule For February – September 2010. USA and Canada RV Show Events
Highlights of Winnebago RV Industries’ new 2010 lineup
How Do Trailer Lights Work?
7 Steps To Hook-Up a Semi-Truck and Trailer
How To Hook Up A 5th Wheel Hitch
