How To Install A Satellite Dish On An RV Video

The first step is installing the satellite receiver. Many RVs these days have an "entertainment center" or cabinet where all of the TV stuff is located. If there is room there for your receiver that is the best place for it.

The receiver needs to be connected to the dish through a coaxial cable, and that is where a lot of people run into their first problem. Chances are your RV already has a cable installed by the manufacturer intended to be used to connect a park cable system. In some cases you can use that cable for the dish but a lot of manufacturers run it through a signal booster that is also connected to the regular TV antenna on the roof. The dish signal cannot get through that booster. If your RV is wired that way you will need to run a separate cable or modify the existing cabling to bypass the booster.

If you can use the existing cable unplug it from where it is connected to the TV or video switch inside the RV and connect it to the satellite receiver input. If you want the ability to use it for either satellite or cable you can do so by installing a coaxial A-B switch. In that case you would connect the existing cable to the common side of the switch (often marked "TV"). Connect the A side of the switch to the satellite receiver input and the B side to where the factory-installed coax was originally connected, or visa versa.

Connect the output of the satellite receiver to your TV, or to the video switch box if your RV has one. The most common way to do that is with coax cable from the VHF Out connector. For better picture quality you can make the connection using component video cables (RCA type) or S-Video if you have compatible inputs on the back of the TV.

If you have two TVs and a dual LNB dish you can put two receivers so the TVs can watch different programs. For that you will need to run two coax cables from the dish into the RV and from that point to the two receivers.

About telephone hookups: DirecTV might say you must have a telephone line hooked up to your receiver. That is mainly so that if you order movies or other Pay Per View features using the on-screen menus the receiver can call DTV and report the purchase for billing. If you never order PPV you don't need a phone line.

Note About Splitters: Ordinary coax cable splitters will not work when installed between the dish and the receiver because (a) they don't have sufficient bandwidth and (b) they will not pass the necessary control voltage from the receiver to the dish. If you want to try using a splitter get one that is made for satellite TV.

Getting Connected

The following describes how to set up portable dishes but except for the part about leveling most of it applies to roof-mounts as well. Roof mounts need to be level too but you do that by leveling the RV.

New users with manual dishes often get frustrated the first time they try to find the satellite. I think the main problem is not understanding that it requires a lot more than just pointing the dish in the general direction of the satellite the way you would with a regular antenna. The satellite is a very small target and very far away. An error of just a degree or two in pointing the dish can make the difference between success and failure. Don't be discouraged. After a little practice you will be able to do it quickly and easily.

1. Hook up the cables, turn power on to the satellite receiver and television, and tune the television to the input channel for the satellite receiver. If you have used coax cable to connect the satellite receiver to the TV that will usually be Channel 3.

2. Take a look at the television screen:

• If it is displaying a message saying "Unusable Signal" it means the satellite receiver is not connected. Check the cables.

• If it shows the satellite menu or a message saying "Searching For Satellite" the receiver is connected ok.

• If it is displaying an actual satellite program you have gotten very lucky and are already locked on.

3. Use the satellite remote control to show the Setup screen. See your satellite receiver user manual for how to do that.

4. Follow the user manual instructions for choosing the type of dish you have and the transponder that you will use for tuning and the ZIP code for your location. For DirecTV use transponder 2. After you enter the ZIP code the screen will display the azimuth and elevation pointing angles. Azimuth is displayed in degrees magnetic so will correspond to standard compass readings without any adjustment.

5. Go outside with a good hand-held compass and determine the direction to the satellite. The best compass is the type with a rotating ring that can be set to the azimuth you are looking for. Look around your camp site and find a spot to place the dish so it will have a clear view of the sky in the satellite direction. Trees or other tall objects in the line of sight might block the signal.

6. It is time to set up the dish. With any manual system an important first step, at least until you get the hang of it, is to make the mount square with the earth. That means using a bubble level to get the mast perfectly vertical if using a tripod, or the base perfectly level if using a mount with a flat base. If you skip this step the alignment will be harder because (a) you can't set the elevation angle accurately unless the mount is level and (b) every adjustment you make in azimuth will change the elevation, and visa versa. A handy but sort of pricey mast that makes leveling easy is the Accu-Dish mount. Make sure the dish is steady after you get it placed and leveled where you want it. Movement, caused by the wind for example, can cause you to lose the signal. You can use sand bags or water jugs to weight it down.

7. Set the elevation angle using the markings on the dish.

8. Use the compass to sight along the azimuth angle and pick out a distant object as an aim point. Rotate the dish so the arm is pointing at the aim point.

9. Adjusting the pointing is what gives people fits in the beginning. You need a signal strength indicator of some kind to let you know how you are doing. One option is the signal strength display on the television screen, but you have to be able to see the screen or have someone watch it for you. Some satellite receivers put out a tone that changes with the signal strength. I use that with wireless headphones that let me hear the tone when I am outside with the dish. Another option is a hand-held signal strength meter such as the Satellite Finder.

The key to success is patience. Rotate the dish back and forth around the given azimuth slowly and smoothly. Try going about 10 degrees in one direction. If that does not work turn it back to the original azimuth and try the other direction. If there is still no signal raise or lower the elevation by about 2 degrees and try again.

When you get a signal carefully fine tune the dish for the best possible signal. You should be able to get a strength of 80 or better, but anything above 60 will usually work. If you are using a Satellite Finder remove it after fine tuning. Taking it out of the line will give you a boost in signal strength.

source: http://home.roadrunner.com/~morodat/rv_satellite_tv.html

Professor of RVing, Jim Twamley shows you how to perform annual maintenance on your RV air conditioner.

When an air conditioner runs, the compressor builds refrigerant pressure. If the compressor is then shut off, either manually or by satisfying thermostat demand, it must stay off for some period of time, usually 3-4 minutes, to allow pressure in the system to equalize before it can be safely restarted. Trying to restart the air conditioner compressor before pressure equalizes is known as "short-cycling". If an air conditioner is "short-cycled" the results may be; 1) tripped air conditioner circuit breaker; 2) generator shut down on overload; or 3) tripped air conditioner thermal overload. The air conditioner thermal overload will reset itself after the compressor cools. It cannot be reset manually.

Some, but not all, RV air conditioner thermostats have built-in time delays to prevent short-cycling. Short-cycling occurs in some RVs when the thermostat is mounted so that cold air blows directly on it. If this happens, the thermostat shuts the compressor off before the cabin has cooled, but quickly warms back up and signals the compressor to restart before refrigerant pressure equalizes. In this case, the flow of air from the air conditioner should be directed away from the thermostat, or the thermostat should be relocated. Short-cycling can be prevented by always being sure the air conditioner rests for 3-4 minutes after the compressor shuts off before trying to restart it. .

We've made the list...now you'd better check it twice...

Spring is here, and summer is just around the corner! But before you pile the family into your RV and hit the road to your next KOA, take a look at this checklist. After all, we want you safe and sound . . . and camping, for the entire year.

1. Check that chassis: Give your rig a good going over by checking all fluid levels, the engine battery and even the lights, brakes and wheel lugs. Don’t forget the tire pressure.

2. You might need that generator: Clean up your rig's generator by servicing the air cleaner, check the oil level and make sure it can carry a full charge. Clean the connections, the governor and the choke linkage.

3. Ya gotta keep the beer cold, too: Check your refrigerator by operating it on gas and looking at the burner to ensure that the flame burns blue. Make sure there are no obstructions in the ventilation system. Even check the knobs to make sure they aren’t stripped. That could cause a false thermostat reading.

4. It might get hot: You paid for that air conditioner, so make sure it works correctly. Check all of the air filters, and make sure the coils are clean and free of debris. Check the voltage at the outside panel. Most systems are designed to operate at 120 volts plus or minus 10 percent.

5. Now go inside: Turn off the water pump switch, close the windows and vents and cabinet drawers. Make sure the refrigerator door is closed tightly. How about your fire extinguishers? Are they in working order?

6. It’s the little things you forget: Don’t leave without your prescription medicines and copies of those prescriptions; your sunglasses; camera and film; stationery and stamps; your address book; a tire gauge; spare parts for your generator; a first aid kit; pet supplies, extra toilet chemicals and paper and maps you'll need.

7. Don't forget the “"big picture"”: Be sure your RV insurance is current. Avoid carrying too much cash. Confirm all of your reservations, discontinue your mail and newspaper delivery and notify your neighbors of your return date.

8. Are you towing a car with a bar?: Check all of the connections and welds. Make sure the safety chains are crossed under the coupling and hooked. Check the lights, transmission, drive shaft and parking brake. Take a spare set of keys and don’t attempt to back up when you are hooked up.

9. And finally, just before you pull out: Disconnect and stow the electrical cord, sewer hose and water hose. Check to make sure the TV antenna is down. Turn off the propane. Raise the leveling jacks. Secure the awning, retract the steps, lock the outside door, adjust the rearview mirror, buckle up and GO CAMPING!

A Guide to Camper Care
Regular maintenance and a pre-trip exam can help you avoid an-untimely breakdown of your recreational vehicle.

Vacationing in a recreational vehicle can be fun-until unexpected mechanical failure hits. To avoid a crisis, make sure your rig is in tiptop shape before you leave. That calls for regular maintenance and a thorough pretrip examination.

For self-propelled vehicles-such as motor homes, van conversions and slide-on campers-most of the maintenance will be the same as on your car. That is, the component systems-engine, drive train and chassis-need at least the regular care normally specified in the owner's manual.
Follow routine maintenance

For the engine compartment, periodically check stud nuts around the carburetor and on the manifold for tightness. Make sure the carburetor is clean and the linkage pivot points are lubricated and free moving. Check all bolts and screws around the fuel pump and its lines for tightness. Drive belts on the fan and alternator, air conditioning and power steering must have the proper tension and not be damaged. Keep the air cleaner and fuel filter clean. Oil level and condition is critical on RV engines, so change it and the oil filter regularly. Watch for leaks around filter, oil pan and rocker arm covers.

The cooling system ranks with the oil in importance. To keep rust and scale from building up, thoroughly flush and drain the system at least every two years, refilling it with a good glycol-base coolant with a rust inhibitor. The radiator, radiator hoses and water pump must be checked for leaks and loose connections. Make sure hoses are firm; soft or cracked ones may blow under pressure.

A clean battery with tight connections, good electrolyte level and no corrosion will be dependable. Dust and caked-on dirt can harm the alternator, generator or even the distributor, so they must be thoroughly cleaned. All engine wiring must be in a position where jouncing from rough terrain or engine movement won't cause chafing. Also, engine heat can melt insulation on electrical wiring, so make sure wiring is out of the way.

The fluid level in automatic transmissions is critical. Check it regularly. Automatic transmission fluid is usually red; when it looks brownish, it needs changing because it's either dirty or has been burned through overheating. Inspect shift linkage for security, too.

Off-road driving is rough on chassis parts; shock absorbers, even heavy-duty ones, won't last as long. Check their condition more frequently than you would on a car. Proper wheel alignment is necessary for good handling but is hard to maintain if you drive on rough roads. Check for bent tie rods and links. Front and rear wheel bearings should be inspected if the vehicle is used off road or the wheels are frequently submerged in water. Inspect for rust and corrosion on brake linings, too.

Tires and wheels are your only contact with the road when you're under way, so they demand attention for safety as well as handling. Check rims for dents, lug nuts for tightness and tires for uneven tread wear, abrasions and proper inflation pressures. All wiring for external lights should get a complete checkup for tightness of connections, breaks and other potential malfunctions.

When you check over the engine compartment and chassis of your recreational vehicle, remember the two major troublemakers: dirt and vibration. Dust collected on back roads combines with moisture and packs the smallest crevice. Jolts from bumps and potholes are transmitted throughout the chassis and engine, gradually loosening everything that can turn. Routine maintenance should include cleaning and tightening.
Check life-support systems

Recreational vehicles usually contain one or more life-supporting systems, such as water, gas and waste disposal. Check these regularly, too. Water systems need only to be drained periodically and flushed with fresh water. You can remove stale taste in the system by adding a mild baking soda solution to the flush. All you need do for the disposal system is to drain as required; for any complications, call a plumber. Propane gas systems for heat and cooking are usually maintenance free; just keep burner heads clean. All three of these systems do require occasional tightening of fittings. Check propane gas lines for leaks at connections by brushing on a mild soap solution and noting the location of bubbles. Never check with a lighted match!

Most motor homes have a 12-volt auxiliary lighting system that draws power from a second battery. Give it the attention you give your engine electrical system battery and you shouldn't have any trouble. If your unit also has a 11 a-volt alternating current system for appliances, it will draw power from a separate generator that runs on gasoline from the main fuel system. Service this small engine regularly, too.

The wastewater system inside the recreational vehicle is self-contained, while on the road or set up in a campsite. The main parts of the waste system are the toilet, holding tanks and tank dump valves. As in residential households, the drainage system also includes p-traps and roof vents to allow escape of odors and gases.

RV Waste Holding Tanks

Waste water is divided into two categories: Black water and gray water. The term black water refers to the waste flushed down the toilet and stored in a separate tank*, referred to as the black tank. Gray water is the wastewater from the sinks, tub and shower drains and is stored within one (or more) gray tank(s). Waste tanks empty through a single outlet, but a separate valve controls each tank.

The dump valves should remain closed even if connected to an exterior sewer hook up. For proper dumping, empty tanks only when they are nearly full. The idea is to send a large volume of water through the tanks and hose at the same time to assist the solid waste in flushing from the system.

RV Waste Holding Tank Dumping Instructions

1. Place the end of the sewer hose into an approved dump station inlet.
2. Twist off the termination outlet cap.
3. Connect the sewer hose by turning counterclockwise, locking the end levers over the termination end.
4. Open the black tank termination valve and drain.
5. Open the gray tank termination valve and drain. (If RV has 2 gray tanks, drain one at a time.)
6. Close termination valves.
7. Disconnect sewer hose and store.
8. Replace termination cap on the outlet.
9. Add chemical deodorant / breakdown agent approved for RV use.

After the sewage tank has been emptied, close the gate valves and put approximately five gallons of water in the sewage holding tanks. This will help prevent solids from building up. The addition of a deodorizing agent like Aqua-Kem® will help prevent odors.
RV Toilet

The toilet operates from water supplied either by the fresh water tank or from an exterior water supply connected to a campground water hook-up. (The water pump must be turned on when utilizing the water from the fresh water tank.)

The toilet flushes directly into the black water tank. You should find complete instructions and care for the model installed in your RV at the manufactures web site or by calling the company.

Solids Build-Up

The most common problem associated with the waste system is solids build up. Using plenty of water when flushing the toilet, and keeping the holding tank valves closed until ready to flush the system can reduce the risk of build up.

Should you ever have a build up of solids, close the valves, fill the tanks at least 3/4 full with fresh water, drive a drive a few miles to agitate the solids then drain the tanks.

Do not put these items in toilet

1. Facial tissues, paper towels, sanitary products (including those labeled flushable).
2. Detergents or bleach. Use a sewage tank deodorizer.
3. Automotive antifreeze, ammonia, alcohols, or acetones.
4. Grease from cooking, table scraps or other solids that may cause clogging.

How Do Trailer Lights Work?

Mounting
A trailer light can be mounted in many different fashions depending on the model, but the most common type simply mounts to the trailer via one or two bolts with a nut on each end. Manufactured trailers will have provisions and a specified spot for the trailer lights, but custom trailers must be outfitted with custom mounts that work with the style trailer light you wish to use. Also, check the local ordinances to see if trailer lights in your area are required to be mounted in a certain fashion, such as so many feet apart or at a specific height off the ground. Also, ensure that the light is waterproof if it will be going on a boat trailer, because when the boat is launched the trailer lights many times get wet or completely submerged.

What to do if Trailer Lights Go Out -- powered by eHow.com

Wiring
Each trailer light is wired directly into the corresponding side of the vehicle's light wiring. In other words, the left turn, stop, and tail trailer light will be wired into the stop, turn, and tail electronics of the left tail light on the tow vehicle, and the same for the right side. For this reason, if there is something wrong with the tail wiring on the vehicle, the trailer lights will not work, either. If there is only a bulb out in the light assembly on the vehicle, the signals on the trailer light will still operate correctly in most cases. The trailer wiring is often set inside a plastic loom and routed either inside or very close to the frame of the trailer to avoid damage from pinches or road debris. It is always recommended to use 14 gauge or above wiring for the trailer lights, especially if the trailer is over 10 feet long. A thicker wire will create less resistance over a long distance.

Connectors
Of course, the trailer wiring is not attached directly to the electronics of the tow vehicle, or the trailer would be stuck on the hitch. It is separated by a connector that can be attached and removed quickly. The two most common types are a pigtail connector, which is a round hub that is usually attached to the hitch itself and has a cover on it for when not towing, and a 4-way flat connector, which disconnects just as easily, but is usually free-hanging or put into the trunk or hatch of the vehicle when the trailer is not in use. Both connectors provide the same function, and it is almost purely a matter of taste as to which one is chosen. The pigtail type connectors seem to be more prone to failure, but they do mount well and are easy to use.

7 Steps To Hook-Up a Semi-Truck and Trailer

Coupling and uncoupling a semi-truck and trailer is an essential skill for a truck driver. Nothing spells "bad day" like having a trailer slide off a fifth wheel at an intersection. However, as long as you follow the proper procedures, you can hook up a semi- truck to a trailer safely.

Step 1
Inspect the truck and trailer, following FMCSA guidelines. Ensure the trailer is road ready and can be safely hooked and towed down the highway. Verify the fifth wheel is in position and greased, with jaws released. If necessary, pull the release lever.

Step 2
Look for a kingpin lock. Most models have a tag that hangs down to flag their presence. Remove it, if necessary, or find someone who can. Most locks release with keys. Failure to remove a kingpin lock before backing under the trailer will prevent the trailer from hooking the kingpin and can damage your fifth wheel.

Step 3
Estimate the trailer's height. You're learning how to hook up a fifth wheel to a trailer, and it can take more than one try. Ideally, the trailer should touch the fifth wheel 6 inches from the bottom as you back underneath. Adjust the landing gear for proper height. If the semi is still too high, lower the suspension by dumping some air.

Step 4
Position the tractor in a straight line in front of the trailer, fifth wheel to trailer kingpin. You can hook a trailer from a skewed position, but it's not recommended. Back up slightly under the nose of the trailer and set your tractor air brakes. Get out and reassess your position.

Step 5
Release your brakes and reposition the semi, if necessary. Back under the trailer until the kingpin slides into position. Keep your window rolled down and you'll hear it snap into place.

Step 6
Test the integrity of the coupling by putting the semi in first gear and moving forward no more than 6 inches. If everything is hooked properly, you can feel the tractor strain as it pulls against the trailer. Set the tractor brakes and walk back to the fifth wheel. Verify that the kingpin has locked and the fifth wheel jaws have closed. The release arm must also be in the closed position. If anything is out of place, pull the release lever and repeat Steps 4 through 6.

Step 7
Couple the gladhands and electrical line. Raise the landing gear, and you're ready to travel.

How To Hook Up A 5th Wheel Hitch

Fifth wheel RVs are the best handling, most secure recreational trailers on the road.  They handle so much better than a standard travel trailer, there just is no comparison.  With a properly set up fifth wheel, you can pull a 15,000-pound trailer all day long in comfort.  You’ll rapidly get to the point where you will almost forget that your monster 3-axle, multi-slideout  luxury condo is riding along behind you.

This easy towing might give one the opportunity for complacency in getting ready to hit the road.

But the last thing you want to see is your $75,000 trailer skittering down the highway on its own after the hitch popped open, turning it loose from your truck.  Don’t laugh, it does happen, and if it happens to you, it will be expensive!

Here are some things you need to know about mounting and hooking up a fifth wheel hitch...

Mounting A 5th Wheel Hitch

When mounting a fifth wheel hitch in the bed of your pickup truck yourself, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations closely.

The location of the hitch should be such that the pin of the trailer is located just an inch or so ahead of the center point of the rear axle of your truck.

If you are mounting a secondhand hitch, be sure you have all of the mounting pieces.  This includes the brackets that bolt under the box of your truck and tie the hitch directly to the frame of the truck.  A pickup box is not designed to handle the load and stress of pulling a trailer.

Once you have everything mounted, the wiring hooked up, and you're ready to hitch up the trailer, then you need to address how the trailer should be adjusted to match the truck height.

Most fifth wheel hitches are adjustable for height. Most fifth wheel trailer pins are also adjustable for height.  It will require moving bolts to different locations to adjust the pin box up or down.  Your goal should be to have the trailer nice and level when it’s hitched to the truck.

In some situations when a high ground clearance 4x4 truck is used, the axles of the trailer are removed and reinstalled on the underside of the springs.  In my opinion, that's not the wisest idea.  Yes, it will level out the trailer, but it’s not how the axles were designed to be used. And, access into the trailer will be awkward as well.  I would prefer selling the high truck and buying something better suited to towing your RV trailer.

Be concerned about how much clearance you have between the box of your truck and the underside of the upper portion of your trailer. If you have too little clearance, when you're maneuvering over uneven terrain, the trailer may hit the sides of the truck.

How To Hook Up A 5th Wheel Hitch

Okay, now we’re ready to hitch up and hit the road.

A wise investment would be to replace the standard tailgate on your truck with one that is cut down so you can hitch up with the tailgate closed.  Or you could even use a mesh cloth gate.  Otherwise, the first time you forget to open your standard tailgate... after you pull ahead a foot, you will have ruined it by striking the 5th wheel pin of the trailer.

Before you back into the hitch, pull the release handle out to cock the hitch in the open position. As you back in and lightly tap it home, or all the way in, the handle will snap closed automatically.

The most important step is next:  Get out of the truck, walk under the front of the trailer and visually confirm the jaws or bar (depending on which brand of hitch you have) snapped all the way shut.

The very next step is to lock down the safety lock on the hitch.  This is critical, as the hitch -- even when properly closed -- can and will open unless the safety lock is in place.

My own experience with this came when I was moving my trailer just around the block to store it.  As I pulled up the driveway and cleared the crest of the hill, the hitch popped open and the trailer dropped out of the hitch.

I was very lucky as my truck was a flat bed.  I put a nice dent in the surface of the bed where the pin hit, but damaged nothing else.  Many pickup boxes have been ruined when a fifth wheel trailer drops, as it will crush the sides of the box.

As far as the likelihood of your hitch breaking loose on the highway... your breakaway brakes are supposed to stop it.  Unless you forgot to hook up the little cable.  If that's the case, when the hitch opens up, you've got a runaway rig!

Always think safety first.  Don’t be afraid to check things over twice before you pull away. Take it from me. Been there, done that. Source: http://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2008/08/5th_wheel_hitch.php

Fifth-wheel travel trailers range from about 8,000 pounds to more than 18,000 pounds - not including the weight of fuel and other fluids and your personal items. There are small, compact fifth-wheels with sleeping accommodations that are different from conventional size fifth wheel models in that the small fifth-wheel models provide a full-time bed in the raised forward section. This can be a real advantage compared to the standard convertible bed available in a full-sized fifth wheel. Headroom also varies considerably. Most compact fifth-wheels require stooping in the front section. These models tend to provide adequate living accommodations with very little wasted space. Of course, all fifth-wheel trailers require a pickup truck for towing, but smaller fifth wheels, can be suitably towed with a wide range of trucks.

Larger fifth-wheel travel trailers are the more practical choice for RVers seeking maximum living space. Some believe that they are the best choice for full-time living. Full sized fifth wheels can include up to three large slideouts and more standing room in the front bedroom. Also, larger fifth wheel models are available with a wider range of appliances, including built-in washer/ dryer, dishwasher and entertainment center with surround sound. The larger fifth-wheel units do require the larger dual-rear-wheel pickup trucks for towing or some fifth wheel owners choose specialized medium duty trucks that have been converted specifically for the purpose of towing a fifth wheel while providing optimal travelling comfort in the cab. It is very important to match the size and weight of a new fifth-wheel to the tow vehicle. It may be best to select the fifth-wheel of your dreams first and then order a truck of adequate towing capacity.

The average price range for fifth wheel travel trailers is about $13,000 to $110,000. So there really is a fifth wheel out there for any budget. Now is a great time to purchase a 5th wheel. RV dealers are slashing their inventories to make way for new 2009 models. Our research has showed many RV dealers are discounting their prices by 30% or more to move remaining stock.

Fifth Wheel Rating Guide

To learn more about fifth wheel brands and models please visit http://www.jrconsumer.com
Randall Eaton is a best-selling author.

Whether you have a compact car or lifted diesel-powered 4X4, a trailer hitch is a vital part for towing any load. It is crucial to have the right tow-setup for your vehicle, so today I'm going to cover the basics of towing and the different types of trailer hitch setups to simplify your search for the perfect hitch.

If you own a car, your towing capacity will obviously be lower than if you owned a truck. The first thing you need to know is the towing capacity of your vehicle. This information can be found in the owner's manual. Most cars can tow around 3,000 pounds safely, while some trucks are built to tow loads of up to 30,000 pounds! The second thing you need to know is how much weight you need to tow. If you don't know the exact weight, you can try to estimate it to see if the total weight you'll be towing is within the specifications set forth by your vehicles manufacturer. If you can't reasonably estimate it, get some help and have the load towed to a scale so you can get the exact weight.

It is important to remember that safe towing involves a number of different elements: not only does your vehicle need to get the load up to a safe speed, but it also needs to be able to control that weight. When towing a load, brakes are just as if not more important than engine horsepower and torque because if you can't safely stop the vehicle, then you shouldn't be towing a load that heavy. So you need to evaluate the current condition of the brake system on your car or truck. Have the brakes been maintained properly? When was the last time you had the brake fluid changed? The last thing you want when towing is a brake system failure. You also need to think about where you are going to be driving. Are you going to be towing up or down hills? How windy do you expect it to be? Will the pavement be dry or wet? How much traffic do you have to navigate through to safely reach your destination? For the safety of you, what you're towing, and everybody else on the road, all these questions should be thought about and answered before you ever hitch something up to your vehicle.

For cars, towing setups are fairly simple because you can't tow that much weight. You'll need a trailer hitch, also known as a trailer hitch receiver, a trailer ball mount, and a trailer hitch ball. Hitch balls come in three sizes: 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". A 2" ball with a 1" diameter shank is the most common size used for towing small and medium sized trailers. However, double check the size of the ball you need for towing and make sure the balls shank fits snuggly in the ball mount you are using. You will also want the trailer-hitch connection to be near level, but with a slight downward angle toward the car. This will help evenly distribute the weight and reduce trailer sway. Trailer ball mounts come in different sizes, make sure to choose one that will work well for your situation.

For trucks, there are far more towing accessories to choose from. In this article, I will only be covering the most common types used today. Some trucks have trailer hitches built into their rear bumper, others have a normal trailer hitch installed on them from the factory, and others will lack a trailer hitch all together. You'll need to evaluate what your truck has and go from there. Hitch ball sizes are the same: another tow option usually found on trailers which are intended for heavy loads use what's called a pindle hitch. A pindle hitch is basically a donut or ring which is made of thick steel that can handle the extreme torsional stress. Larger trucks also have 5th wheel mounting points in the bed of the truck, to which a 5th wheel hitch can be mounted. 5th wheels are used for hauling very heavy loads because it uses a much stronger hitch connection and because it centers the weight on the vehicle between the axles. This keeps the truck from tipping over backwards once it's loaded. Similar to a 5th wheel is the gooseneck hitch. A gooseneck hitch also attaches to the bed of the truck and thus centers the trailers weight, but a gooseneck hitch uses a traditional ball-style hitch rather than the 5th wheel-style of hitch connection. If you are towing a really heavy load, you might want to purchase a weight distribution system or stabilizer bars to help reduce or eliminate trailer sway.

I hope this article helps clarify the different types of trailer hitches and makes you think about some important aspects of towing loads. Remember, safety is the name of the game.

Click on the following links for more information about trailer hitches, 5th wheel hitch, gooseneck hitch, trailer hitch, or hitch bike racks.

RV Tire Failure 101

RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.

What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?

• Overloading the tires

• Under inflated tires

• Ozone and UV rays

• Age of the tires

• Rotating tires

Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

Happy Camping,