Professor of RVing, Jim Twamley shows you how to perform annual maintenance on your RV air conditioner.

When an air conditioner runs, the compressor builds refrigerant pressure. If the compressor is then shut off, either manually or by satisfying thermostat demand, it must stay off for some period of time, [...]]]> RV Air Conditioning Maintenance Video

Professor of RVing, Jim Twamley shows you how to perform annual maintenance on your RV air conditioner.

When an air conditioner runs, the compressor builds refrigerant pressure. If the compressor is then shut off, either manually or by satisfying thermostat demand, it must stay off for some period of time, usually 3-4 minutes, to allow pressure in the system to equalize before it can be safely restarted. Trying to restart the air conditioner compressor before pressure equalizes is known as “short-cycling”. If an air conditioner is “short-cycled” the results may be; 1) tripped air conditioner circuit breaker; 2) generator shut down on overload; or 3) tripped air conditioner thermal overload. The air conditioner thermal overload will reset itself after the compressor cools. It cannot be reset manually.

Some, but not all, RV air conditioner thermostats have built-in time delays to prevent short-cycling. Short-cycling occurs in some RVs when the thermostat is mounted so that cold air blows directly on it. If this happens, the thermostat shuts the compressor off before the cabin has cooled, but quickly warms back up and signals the compressor to restart before refrigerant pressure equalizes. In this case, the flow of air from the air conditioner should be directed away from the thermostat, or the thermostat should be relocated. Short-cycling can be prevented by always being sure the air conditioner rests for 3-4 minutes after the compressor shuts off before trying to restart it. .

We’ve made the list…now you’d better check it twice…

Spring is here, and summer is just around the corner! But before you pile the family into your RV and hit the road to your next KOA, take a look at this checklist. After all, [...]]]> Ready For That First RV Camping Trip? A Guide to RV Camper Care

We’ve made the list…now you’d better check it twice…

Spring is here, and summer is just around the corner! But before you pile the family into your RV and hit the road to your next KOA, take a look at this checklist. After all, we want you safe and sound . . . and camping, for the entire year.

1. Check that chassis: Give your rig a good going over by checking all fluid levels, the engine battery and even the lights, brakes and wheel lugs. Don’t forget the tire pressure.

2. You might need that generator: Clean up your rig’s generator by servicing the air cleaner, check the oil level and make sure it can carry a full charge. Clean the connections, the governor and the choke linkage.

3. Ya gotta keep the beer cold, too: Check your refrigerator by operating it on gas and looking at the burner to ensure that the flame burns blue. Make sure there are no obstructions in the ventilation system. Even check the knobs to make sure they aren’t stripped. That could cause a false thermostat reading.

4. It might get hot: You paid for that air conditioner, so make sure it works correctly. Check all of the air filters, and make sure the coils are clean and free of debris. Check the voltage at the outside panel. Most systems are designed to operate at 120 volts plus or minus 10 percent.

5. Now go inside: Turn off the water pump switch, close the windows and vents and cabinet drawers. Make sure the refrigerator door is closed tightly. How about your fire extinguishers? Are they in working order?

6. It’s the little things you forget: Don’t leave without your prescription medicines and copies of those prescriptions; your sunglasses; camera and film; stationery and stamps; your address book; a tire gauge; spare parts for your generator; a first aid kit; pet supplies, extra toilet chemicals and paper and maps you’ll need.

7. Don’t forget the “”big picture””: Be sure your RV insurance is current. Avoid carrying too much cash. Confirm all of your reservations, discontinue your mail and newspaper delivery and notify your neighbors of your return date.

8. Are you towing a car with a bar?: Check all of the connections and welds. Make sure the safety chains are crossed under the coupling and hooked. Check the lights, transmission, drive shaft and parking brake. Take a spare set of keys and don’t attempt to back up when you are hooked up.

9. And finally, just before you pull out: Disconnect and stow the electrical cord, sewer hose and water hose. Check to make sure the TV antenna is down. Turn off the propane. Raise the leveling jacks. Secure the awning, retract the steps, lock the outside door, adjust the rearview mirror, buckle up and GO CAMPING!

A Guide to Camper Care
Regular maintenance and a pre-trip exam can help you avoid an-untimely breakdown of your recreational vehicle.

Vacationing in a recreational vehicle can be fun-until unexpected mechanical failure hits. To avoid a crisis, make sure your rig is in tiptop shape before you leave. That calls for regular maintenance and a thorough pretrip examination.

For self-propelled vehicles-such as motor homes, van conversions and slide-on campers-most of the maintenance will be the same as on your car. That is, the component systems-engine, drive train and chassis-need at least the regular care normally specified in the owner’s manual.
Follow routine maintenance

For the engine compartment, periodically check stud nuts around the carburetor and on the manifold for tightness. Make sure the carburetor is clean and the linkage pivot points are lubricated and free moving. Check all bolts and screws around the fuel pump and its lines for tightness. Drive belts on the fan and alternator, air conditioning and power steering must have the proper tension and not be damaged. Keep the air cleaner and fuel filter clean. Oil level and condition is critical on RV engines, so change it and the oil filter regularly. Watch for leaks around filter, oil pan and rocker arm covers.

The cooling system ranks with the oil in importance. To keep rust and scale from building up, thoroughly flush and drain the system at least every two years, refilling it with a good glycol-base coolant with a rust inhibitor. The radiator, radiator hoses and water pump must be checked for leaks and loose connections. Make sure hoses are firm; soft or cracked ones may blow under pressure.

A clean battery with tight connections, good electrolyte level and no corrosion will be dependable. Dust and caked-on dirt can harm the alternator, generator or even the distributor, so they must be thoroughly cleaned. All engine wiring must be in a position where jouncing from rough terrain or engine movement won’t cause chafing. Also, engine heat can melt insulation on electrical wiring, so make sure wiring is out of the way.

The fluid level in automatic transmissions is critical. Check it regularly. Automatic transmission fluid is usually red; when it looks brownish, it needs changing because it’s either dirty or has been burned through overheating. Inspect shift linkage for security, too.

Off-road driving is rough on chassis parts; shock absorbers, even heavy-duty ones, won’t last as long. Check their condition more frequently than you would on a car. Proper wheel alignment is necessary for good handling but is hard to maintain if you drive on rough roads. Check for bent tie rods and links. Front and rear wheel bearings should be inspected if the vehicle is used off road or the wheels are frequently submerged in water. Inspect for rust and corrosion on brake linings, too.

Tires and wheels are your only contact with the road when you’re under way, so they demand attention for safety as well as handling. Check rims for dents, lug nuts for tightness and tires for uneven tread wear, abrasions and proper inflation pressures. All wiring for external lights should get a complete checkup for tightness of connections, breaks and other potential malfunctions.

When you check over the engine compartment and chassis of your recreational vehicle, remember the two major troublemakers: dirt and vibration. Dust collected on back roads combines with moisture and packs the smallest crevice. Jolts from bumps and potholes are transmitted throughout the chassis and engine, gradually loosening everything that can turn. Routine maintenance should include cleaning and tightening.
Check life-support systems

Recreational vehicles usually contain one or more life-supporting systems, such as water, gas and waste disposal. Check these regularly, too. Water systems need only to be drained periodically and flushed with fresh water. You can remove stale taste in the system by adding a mild baking soda solution to the flush. All you need do for the disposal system is to drain as required; for any complications, call a plumber. Propane gas systems for heat and cooking are usually maintenance free; just keep burner heads clean. All three of these systems do require occasional tightening of fittings. Check propane gas lines for leaks at connections by brushing on a mild soap solution and noting the location of bubbles. Never check with a lighted match!

Most motor homes have a 12-volt auxiliary lighting system that draws power from a second battery. Give it the attention you give your engine electrical system battery and you shouldn’t have any trouble. If your unit also has a 11 a-volt alternating current system for appliances, it will draw power from a separate generator that runs on gasoline from the main fuel system. Service this small engine regularly, too.

One of the most common questions and concerns I receive is about the RV electrical system. Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a [...]]]> Basic RV Electricity. Basic Motorcoach Electricity. RV Electricity FAQ

One of the most common questions and concerns I receive is about the RV electrical system. Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. It has a 12-volt DC automotive system, a 12-volt DC coach system, and a 120 volt AC coach system. We are primarily concerned with the 12-volt DC and 120 volt AC coach systems.

The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external 120 volt electric source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV. You must have a 120 Volt AC power source if you are going to use the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the 120 Volt electrical outlets. For the most part everything else in the camper works off of 12-volt DC power. When you are plugged in at the campground a portion of the 120 volt AC current is converted to 12-volt DC current for the items in the RV that work off of 12 volts. Some of these items are the overhead lights, the furnace fan, and the fan over the range, the vent fan in the bathroom, the water pump, LP gas leak detector, stereo, and the refrigerator when it’s in the LP gas mode. If you look at the RV’s power distribution panel you will see circuit breakers like you have in your house for the 120-volt AC side, and automotive style blade fuses for the 12-volt DC side.

If you are not plugged into an external power source you can still use the 12-volt DC system if you have a 12-volt deep cycle marine battery on your unit. As long as the battery or batteries are charged you can use everything in the RV except the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the electrical outlets. If you have a motorhome, or you’re going to purchase a motorhome, it will have a battery for the automotive system and an auxiliary battery for the coach system. The coach battery is charged whenever the motorhome is running; the generator is running, or when it’s plugged into an external electrical source.

Before we go any further I would like to offer a few basic battery maintenance tips to keep your RV batteries in top operating condition.

First of all never work around batteries with an open flame. Vapors from the batteries can ignite, causing serious damage. To prevent the possibility of arcing turn off any 12 Volt power sources and disconnect the negative battery cable before working on or around the batteries. If you have a maintenance free battery you will not be able to perform some of these checks. The color of the eye on the battery will indicate the condition of a maintenance free battery. Consult your owner’s manual for more information on maintenance free batteries.

Constant charging depletes electrolyte levels in batteries. Inspect electrolyte levels and add distilled water as required. Add water until it reaches the split-level marker in each cell. Do not overfill.

Inspect all battery cable and terminal connections. Keep all connections clean and tight. Do not over tighten. When battery terminals are clean and tight on the battery post spray the terminals with a battery terminal protector to prevent corrosion.

To clean the battery itself use a diluted baking soda and water solution. After cleaning the battery flush it thoroughly with water.

Check the state of charge and keep batteries fully charged. Specific gravity readings for a charged battery should be between 1.215 & 1.250. If you remove the batteries for storage charge them to a full charge and check them periodically during storage. Re-charge as necessary. Follow proper charging instructions for the type of battery. Deep cycle batteries require a lower amp charge over a longer period of time.

There are numerous electronic devices and equipment in your RV that can drain the coach battery when you’re not using the RV. Some examples are; the TV antenna booster, the LP gas leak detector, clocks in radios, or just leaving a 12-volt light on by accident. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a battery disconnect, from an RV dealer, that can be installed directly on the battery post. When you aren’t using the RV or have no requirement for the coach battery you simply raise a lever and disconnect the battery. A battery disconnect can be installed on the chassis battery too.

Lastly, if you are not comfortable performing the maintenance on your RV batteries have it done by a qualified service center.

Motorhomes also provide an additional source of 120 volt AC power with an onboard power generator. This unique feature offers you the convenience of 120-volt AC power whenever you need it, making the unit fully self-contained. The fuel supply for the generator comes directly from the motor home fuel tank. The system is designed so that when the fuel tank gets to 1/4 tank full the generator will stop running so it doesn’t use all of the fuel in the motor home. Some motor homes have an automatic switch over from an external power supply to the generator. Other motor homes require you to plug the motor home power cord into a generator receptacle on the motor home to use the generator.

I would also like to give you a few tips about RV electricity. To start with a 30 Amp system is the most common on RV’s. The plug on your RV is a large three-prong, heavy duty 30 Amp, 120-volt plug.

Most campgrounds you go to will provide you with a 30 Amp outlet that your RV power cord will plug directly into. If you go to a campground that has a regular house type outlet there are adapters that you can use to go from your RV plug to the house type outlet. When you do this you are plugging into a 15 Amp or 20 Amp power source. This means you will be limited as to what appliances you can run in your RV. It is even possible to damage some appliances if they are not getting the required amperage to operate properly. Let’s say for example you plug into a 15 Amp outlet and you are using a small appliance that is drawing 5 Amps, that leaves you with 10 Amps. Now you turn the roof air conditioner on and when the air conditioner compressor engages it needs about 13 Amps, but it’s not available, and it damages the air conditioner compressor.

Even with a 30 Amp service you need to be selective about what you are using. If you try to use too much the RV will let you know by tripping a breaker in the distribution box and hopefully no harm will be done. There is a short formula that may help you with this. 30 Amps X 120 Volts = 3600 watts. This is the total amount of power you can use before you overload the system. Think of it like this, with 3600 watts you could use 36 one hundred watt light bulbs. When you turn on the 37th light you will probably trip a breaker.

It is also a good idea to take a voltmeter along with you that you can plug right into one of the outlets. Campground electricity varies depending on the demand placed on it. If everybody is running his or her air conditioner the voltage may drop below an acceptable level, and it would be wise to wait until it is restored back to normal. You can glance at the voltmeter every time you walk by it and save yourself untimely and costly repairs to your RV appliances. Voltage below 105 volts or above 135 volts can damage electronic equipment and appliances.

Most appliances will tell you what the required wattage or amperage is to run the appliance. Here is the amperage draw for some common RV appliances and electronics.

* Coffee maker – 8.3 amps
* Converter – 8 amps
* Hair dryer – 9 to 12 amps
* Microwave – 13 amps
* Refrigerator – 2.8 amps
* Roof a/c 13.5 amps
* TV – 1.5 amps
* Toaster – 8 to 10 amps
* VCR – 2 amps
* Electric skillet- 6 to 12 amps

Question: “What is a deep cycle battery?”

Answer: RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach. Most RVs come with a single Group 24 deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp/hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged over and over again and still take a charge. If you enjoy dry camping (without hook-ups) you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp/hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp/hour capacity is the larger the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to consider a Group 27 or Group 31 deep cycle battery.

Comment: “You did not cover inverters. I installed one in my motorhome because there are times when you want a little power for the TV or VCR and don’t want to crank the generator.”

Reply: You are absolutely right. Inverters are nice to have at times when you are dry camping and/or when you don’t have access to 120-volts AC. Batteries produce power in Direct Current (DC) that run at low voltages. Power companies and AC generators produce sine wave Alternating Current (AC), which is used to operate 120-volt appliances and electronic equipment. An inverter takes 12-volt DC power from your RV batteries and electronically changes it to 120-volt AC. Some RVers use an inverter just to watch TV or for their personal computer. Other RVers use an inverter to operate microwaves, coffee pots or other larger appliances. When you purchase an inverter the inverter’s output capacity must be capable of operating the loads that will be placed on it.

Inverters have two different capacity ratings. Continuous output rating and surge capacity rating. Continuous output is the maximum wattage the inverter can output for a long time period. Surge capacity is the maximum wattage the inverter can output during initial start up. All appliances require more power when they start, compared to what they use when they are running. They can use as much as two or three times the amount to start then what they use to run, so the starting power required for any appliance that you plan to use with the inverter must be within the surge capacity rating. There are modified sine wave inverters and true sine wave inverters. A true sine wave inverter is more expensive, but they are capable of producing power as good as the power company and all appliances and electronic equipment will run as they are intended to. Keep in mind you are drawing the power from your RV batteries and any power used has to be put back in through some type of effective charging system.

Comment: This is a second comment from the same reader. “You need to tell your reader’s what to do when you only have 15 amps to plug in to, (usually at someone’s home and using the plug on their front porch) and you need the air conditioner.”

Reply: I personally don’t recommend doing this, but I agree that it is possible, like you say to use the A/C if you are plugged in to a 15-amp outlet. If you do, you must exercise caution. When the A/C compressor engages it requires more amps (about 13) than it does once it is running. Because of this you need to turn all appliances off before starting the A/C, to include switching the refrigerator from A/C to LP gas. Once it is running it may be possible to use a small appliance or electronic equipment that operates on low amperage, like a TV, but you need to monitor the voltage to prevent damaging any appliances or electronic equipment.

Comment: This is the third comment from the same reader. “You should also tell your reader’s that if they are using a long extension cord it must be #12 wire or lower, (heavier gauge) to keep the amount of voltage drop from causing problems.”

Reply: You’re right again. If it is possible you should try to avoid using an extension cord when making electrical connections at the campground. The gauges of the wire used in standard household extension cords are not suitable for RV electrical hook-ups. Eventually you will be put in a situation where you will need to use an extension cord. It is a good idea to purchase an RV extension cord that is compatible to the electrical system of your RV, and have it on hand. If you do purchase an extension cord somewhere else I recommend 10-guage wire and use as short of a cord as possible.

Question: “Will it hurt to leave the RV plugged in and the refrigerator on all of the time?”

Answer: I leave my refrigerator on almost all of the time. The RV should be on level ground so the refrigerator operates properly and you will need to monitor it for when it needs to be defrosted. The only other concern with leaving the RV plugged in, not related to the refrigerator, is the coach battery. Whenever the RV is plugged in the coach battery is being charged. It’s really just a trickle charge, but over time it can deplete the electrolyte levels in the battery cells. You need to check, or have somebody check the battery at least monthly when the RV is plugged in during storage.

Question: “Is there any danger of damaging your system if you plug a 30-amp system into a 50-amp service using the proper adapter?”

Answer: This is a controversial subject. Some people will argue that if they make an electrical adapter for it than it is safe. Others will argue that it is not safe to use a 50-amp service for a system designed for 30-amps or a 20-amp service for a 30-amp system. Electrical adapters are a necessity for RVers. Eventually you will be in a situation where you have to use some type of electrical adapter to make a connection at a campground. It may be an outdated campground or isolated area that only provides 15 or 20-amp electrical service, or the only site available is a 50-amp service for your 30-amp system. There are adapters that will go from your RV type plug and size down to household type outlets and adapters that go from household type outlets to all types of campground RV connections. It’s nice to have these adapters on hand when you need them, but you must exercise caution and use common sense when you use them. If you have a 30-amp system and you have to use a 50-amp service use your RV electrical system exactly the same way you do when you’re plugged into a 30-amp service. In other words don’t try to run anymore than you normally would. On the other hand if your RV is a 30-amp or 50-amp system and you use an adapter to plug the RV into a 15 or 20-amp outlet you severely limit what you can operate in the RV. In this situation you should only use what appliances or electronic equipment are absolutely necessary. If you place too much of a demand on electrical adapters, or use them for extended periods of time they can overheat and melt resulting in damage to the RV power cord or the electrical system.

Question: “Sometimes the coach battery in our motorhome won’t start the generator and other times it will. My question is why isn’t the RV battery charger keeping my battery charged when I leave it plugged in all the time?”

Answer: The battery charger in the RV converter provides a trickle charge and is only designed to keep the coach battery(s) topped off. It is not designed or capable of recharging a battery that is completely discharged or damaged. The automotive alternator also charges the coach battery when you are driving the RV. I would guess that the alternator is probably charging the battery enough to start the generator sometimes after driving for a while, but the RV battery charger can’t charge it enough to start the generator when it’s plugged in. The constant charging from leaving it plugged in all the time can deplete the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked. You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often.

I hope these reader’s questions and comments are helpful to you and quite possibly might answer some questions that you had about basic RV electricity.

Sourced: RVEducation101.com

RV Shows present a great  opportunity to see many 2010 RV – recreational vehicles without driving from RV dealer to RV dealer. Most RV shows charge a modest admission, but for most RVers it’s a modest investment for the opportunity to see [...]]]> RV Shows  Schedule For February – September 2010.  USA and Canada RV Show Events

RV Shows present a great  opportunity to see many 2010 RV – recreational vehicles without driving from RV dealer to RV dealer. Most RV shows charge a modest admission, but for most RVers it’s a modest investment for the opportunity to see such a wide-range of motorhomes, travel trailers, fifth wheels, truck campers and even pop up trailers in one place, often at special “show prices.” Some of the bargains are real, others are simply prices an RV dealer would likely accept back at the dealership from an RV buyer with sharp negotiation sales.

Flint Camper & RV Show
February 4 – 7, 2010
Perani Arena & Event Center
Flint, MI

Cincinnati RV Super Show
February 5 – 7, 2010
Wall 2 Wall Sports Complex
Mason, OH

Detroit Camper & RV Show
February 10 – 14, 2010
Rock Financial Showplace
Novi, MI

Edmonton RV Exposition & Sale
February 11 – 14, 2010
Northlands Agricom
Edmonton, AB (CANADA)

Minneapolis/St. Paul RV, Vacation & Camping Show
February 11 – 14, 2010
Minneapolis Convention Center
Minneapolis, MN

Richmond Camping RV Expo
February 12 – 14, 2010
Richmond Raceway Complex
Richmond, VA

Arkansas RV Show
February 12 – 14, 2010
Little Rock’s Statehouse Convention Center
Little Rock, AR

Red Deer RV Show
February 12 – 15, 2010
Westerner Park
Red Deer, AB (CANADA)

Northeast RV Show
February 12 – 15, 2010
Rockland Community College Field House
Suffern, NY

Springfield RV, Camping and Outdoor Show
February 12 – 15, 2010
Eastern States Exposition Grounds
West Springfield, MA

Grand Rapids Boat Show
February 17 – 22, 2010
DeVos Place
Grand Rapids, MI

West Palm Beach RV Show
February 18 – 21, 2010
South Florida Fairgrounds
West Palm Beach, FL

Kansas Sports, Boat & Travel Show
February 18 – 21, 2010
Kansas Coliseum
Wichita, KS

Central Florida RV Show
February 18 – 21, 2010
Volusia County Fairgrounds
Jacksonville, FL

North Carolina RV & Camping Show
February 19 – 21, 2010
Charlotte Convention Center
Charlotte, NC

Maryland Spring RV Show
February 19-21 & February 26 -28, 2010
Maryland State Fairgrounds
Timonium, MD

Las Vegas Sportsmen’s RV & Travel Show
February 19 – 21, 2010
Cashman Center
Las Vegas, NV

Central Texas RV Super Show
February 19 – 21, 2010
Bell County Expo Denter
Belton, TX

Jacksonville RV Show
February 25 – 28, 2010
Jacksonville Equestrian Center
Jacksonville, FL

Northern Kentucky Camper Show
Feb. 26 – 28, 2010
Northern Kentucky Convention Center
Covington, KY

Rhode Island RV & Camping Show
February 26 – 28, 2010
Rhode Island Convention Center
Providence, RI

North Carolina RV & Camping Show
February 26 – 28, 2010
North Carolina State Fairgrounds
Raleigh, NC

Colorado RV, Sports, Boat & Travel Show
March 4 – 7,2010
National Western Complex
Denver, CO

Colorado RV, Sports, Boat & Travel Show
March 4 – 7,2010
National Western Complex
Denver, CO

Atlantic City RV & Camping Show
March 5 – 7, 2010
Atlantic City Convention Center
Atlantic City, NJ

New Orleans Spring RV & Camping Show
March 5 – 7, 2010
Pontchartrain Center
Kenner, LA

Virginia RV Show
March 12 – 14, 2010
Hampton Roads Convention Center
Hampton, VA

Columbus RV Super Show
March 12 – 14, 2010
Ohio Expo Center
Columbus, OH

Campers World RV Show
March 12 – 14, 2010
York Expo Center
York, PA

Acadiana RV & Camping Show
March 19 – 21, 2010
Cajun Field
Lafayette, LA

Central New England RV & Camping Show
March 19 -21, 2010
Worcester, MA

Nashville RV, Boat & Motorcycle Super Show
April 2 – 4, 2010
Tennessee Miller Coliseum
Murfreesboro, TN

Pomona RV & Travel Show
April 8 – 11, 2010
Pomona Fairplex
Pomona, CA

Iowa RV & Travel Show
April 9 – 11, 2010
Iowa Events Center – Hyvee Hall
Des Moines, IA

ATD Convention & Expo
April 24 – April 26, 2010
Gaylord Palms
Orlando, FL

Tampa Bay Summer RV Show
May 13 – 16, 2010
Florida State Fairgrounds
Tampa, FL

Atlanta Camping & RV Show
September 17 – 19, 2010
Atlanta Expo Center South
Atlanta, GA

East Texas RV Super Show
September 24 – 26, 2010
Ford Park
Beaumont, TX

The wastewater system inside the recreational vehicle is self-contained, while on the road or set up in a campsite. The main parts of the waste system are the toilet, holding tanks and tank dump valves. As in residential households, the drainage system also includes [...]]]> RV Waste Holding Tank Dumping Instructions
RV Waste Water System Care & Maintenance

The wastewater system inside the recreational vehicle is self-contained, while on the road or set up in a campsite. The main parts of the waste system are the toilet, holding tanks and tank dump valves. As in residential households, the drainage system also includes p-traps and roof vents to allow escape of odors and gases.

RV Waste Holding Tanks

Waste water is divided into two categories: Black water and gray water. The term black water refers to the waste flushed down the toilet and stored in a separate tank*, referred to as the black tank. Gray water is the wastewater from the sinks, tub and shower drains and is stored within one (or more) gray tank(s). Waste tanks empty through a single outlet, but a separate valve controls each tank.

The dump valves should remain closed even if connected to an exterior sewer hook up. For proper dumping, empty tanks only when they are nearly full. The idea is to send a large volume of water through the tanks and hose at the same time to assist the solid waste in flushing from the system.

RV Waste Holding Tank Dumping Instructions

1. Place the end of the sewer hose into an approved dump station inlet.
2. Twist off the termination outlet cap.
3. Connect the sewer hose by turning counterclockwise, locking the end levers over the termination end.
4. Open the black tank termination valve and drain.
5. Open the gray tank termination valve and drain. (If RV has 2 gray tanks, drain one at a time.)
6. Close termination valves.
7. Disconnect sewer hose and store.
8. Replace termination cap on the outlet.
9. Add chemical deodorant / breakdown agent approved for RV use.

After the sewage tank has been emptied, close the gate valves and put approximately five gallons of water in the sewage holding tanks. This will help prevent solids from building up. The addition of a deodorizing agent like Aqua-Kem® will help prevent odors.
RV Toilet

The toilet operates from water supplied either by the fresh water tank or from an exterior water supply connected to a campground water hook-up. (The water pump must be turned on when utilizing the water from the fresh water tank.)

The toilet flushes directly into the black water tank. You should find complete instructions and care for the model installed in your RV at the manufactures web site or by calling the company.

Solids Build-Up

The most common problem associated with the waste system is solids build up. Using plenty of water when flushing the toilet, and keeping the holding tank valves closed until ready to flush the system can reduce the risk of build up.

Should you ever have a build up of solids, close the valves, fill the tanks at least 3/4 full with fresh water, drive a drive a few miles to agitate the solids then drain the tanks.

Do not put these items in toilet

1. Facial tissues, paper towels, sanitary products (including those labeled flushable).
2. Detergents or bleach. Use a sewage tank deodorizer.
3. Automotive antifreeze, ammonia, alcohols, or acetones.
4. Grease from cooking, table scraps or other solids that may cause clogging.

Mounting A trailer light can be mounted in many different fashions depending on the model, but the most common type simply mounts to the trailer via one or two bolts with a nut on each end. Manufactured trailers will have provisions and a specified spot for the trailer lights, but custom trailers [...]]]> How Do Trailer Lights Work?

Mounting
A trailer light can be mounted in many different fashions depending on the model, but the most common type simply mounts to the trailer via one or two bolts with a nut on each end. Manufactured trailers will have provisions and a specified spot for the trailer lights, but custom trailers must be outfitted with custom mounts that work with the style trailer light you wish to use. Also, check the local ordinances to see if trailer lights in your area are required to be mounted in a certain fashion, such as so many feet apart or at a specific height off the ground. Also, ensure that the light is waterproof if it will be going on a boat trailer, because when the boat is launched the trailer lights many times get wet or completely submerged.

What to do if Trailer Lights Go Out — powered by eHow.com

Wiring
Each trailer light is wired directly into the corresponding side of the vehicle’s light wiring. In other words, the left turn, stop, and tail trailer light will be wired into the stop, turn, and tail electronics of the left tail light on the tow vehicle, and the same for the right side. For this reason, if there is something wrong with the tail wiring on the vehicle, the trailer lights will not work, either. If there is only a bulb out in the light assembly on the vehicle, the signals on the trailer light will still operate correctly in most cases. The trailer wiring is often set inside a plastic loom and routed either inside or very close to the frame of the trailer to avoid damage from pinches or road debris. It is always recommended to use 14 gauge or above wiring for the trailer lights, especially if the trailer is over 10 feet long. A thicker wire will create less resistance over a long distance.

Connectors
Of course, the trailer wiring is not attached directly to the electronics of the tow vehicle, or the trailer would be stuck on the hitch. It is separated by a connector that can be attached and removed quickly. The two most common types are a pigtail connector, which is a round hub that is usually attached to the hitch itself and has a cover on it for when not towing, and a 4-way flat connector, which disconnects just as easily, but is usually free-hanging or put into the trunk or hatch of the vehicle when the trailer is not in use. Both connectors provide the same function, and it is almost purely a matter of taste as to which one is chosen. The pigtail type connectors seem to be more prone to failure, but they do mount well and are easy to use.

Coupling and uncoupling a semi-truck and trailer is an essential skill for a truck driver. Nothing spells “bad day” like having a trailer slide off a fifth wheel at an intersection. However, as long as you follow the proper procedures, you can hook up a semi- truck to [...]]]> 7 Steps To Hook-Up a Semi-Truck and Trailer

Coupling and uncoupling a semi-truck and trailer is an essential skill for a truck driver. Nothing spells “bad day” like having a trailer slide off a fifth wheel at an intersection. However, as long as you follow the proper procedures, you can hook up a semi- truck to a trailer safely.

Step 1
Inspect the truck and trailer, following FMCSA guidelines. Ensure the trailer is road ready and can be safely hooked and towed down the highway. Verify the fifth wheel is in position and greased, with jaws released. If necessary, pull the release lever.

Step 2
Look for a kingpin lock. Most models have a tag that hangs down to flag their presence. Remove it, if necessary, or find someone who can. Most locks release with keys. Failure to remove a kingpin lock before backing under the trailer will prevent the trailer from hooking the kingpin and can damage your fifth wheel.

Step 3
Estimate the trailer’s height. You’re learning how to hook up a fifth wheel to a trailer, and it can take more than one try. Ideally, the trailer should touch the fifth wheel 6 inches from the bottom as you back underneath. Adjust the landing gear for proper height. If the semi is still too high, lower the suspension by dumping some air.

Step 4
Position the tractor in a straight line in front of the trailer, fifth wheel to trailer kingpin. You can hook a trailer from a skewed position, but it’s not recommended. Back up slightly under the nose of the trailer and set your tractor air brakes. Get out and reassess your position.

Step 5
Release your brakes and reposition the semi, if necessary. Back under the trailer until the kingpin slides into position. Keep your window rolled down and you’ll hear it snap into place.

Step 6
Test the integrity of the coupling by putting the semi in first gear and moving forward no more than 6 inches. If everything is hooked properly, you can feel the tractor strain as it pulls against the trailer. Set the tractor brakes and walk back to the fifth wheel. Verify that the kingpin has locked and the fifth wheel jaws have closed. The release arm must also be in the closed position. If anything is out of place, pull the release lever and repeat Steps 4 through 6.

Step 7
Couple the gladhands and electrical line. Raise the landing gear, and you’re ready to travel.

Fifth wheel RVs are the best handling, most secure recreational trailers on the road.  They handle so much better than a standard travel trailer, there just is no comparison.  With a properly set up fifth wheel, you can pull a 15,000-pound trailer all day long in comfort.  You’ll [...]]]> How To Hook Up A 5th Wheel Hitch

Fifth wheel RVs are the best handling, most secure recreational trailers on the road.  They handle so much better than a standard travel trailer, there just is no comparison.  With a properly set up fifth wheel, you can pull a 15,000-pound trailer all day long in comfort.  You’ll rapidly get to the point where you will almost forget that your monster 3-axle, multi-slideout  luxury condo is riding along behind you.

This easy towing might give one the opportunity for complacency in getting ready to hit the road.

But the last thing you want to see is your $75,000 trailer skittering down the highway on its own after the hitch popped open, turning it loose from your truck.  Don’t laugh, it does happen, and if it happens to you, it will be expensive!

Here are some things you need to know about mounting and hooking up a fifth wheel hitch…

Mounting A 5th Wheel Hitch

When mounting a fifth wheel hitch in the bed of your pickup truck yourself, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations closely.

The location of the hitch should be such that the pin of the trailer is located just an inch or so ahead of the center point of the rear axle of your truck.

If you are mounting a secondhand hitch, be sure you have all of the mounting pieces.  This includes the brackets that bolt under the box of your truck and tie the hitch directly to the frame of the truck.  A pickup box is not designed to handle the load and stress of pulling a trailer.

Once you have everything mounted, the wiring hooked up, and you’re ready to hitch up the trailer, then you need to address how the trailer should be adjusted to match the truck height.

Most fifth wheel hitches are adjustable for height. Most fifth wheel trailer pins are also adjustable for height.  It will require moving bolts to different locations to adjust the pin box up or down.  Your goal should be to have the trailer nice and level when it’s hitched to the truck.

In some situations when a high ground clearance 4×4 truck is used, the axles of the trailer are removed and reinstalled on the underside of the springs.  In my opinion, that’s not the wisest idea.  Yes, it will level out the trailer, but it’s not how the axles were designed to be used. And, access into the trailer will be awkward as well.  I would prefer selling the high truck and buying something better suited to towing your RV trailer.

Be concerned about how much clearance you have between the box of your truck and the underside of the upper portion of your trailer. If you have too little clearance, when you’re maneuvering over uneven terrain, the trailer may hit the sides of the truck.

How To Hook Up A 5th Wheel Hitch

Okay, now we’re ready to hitch up and hit the road.

A wise investment would be to replace the standard tailgate on your truck with one that is cut down so you can hitch up with the tailgate closed.  Or you could even use a mesh cloth gate.  Otherwise, the first time you forget to open your standard tailgate… after you pull ahead a foot, you will have ruined it by striking the 5th wheel pin of the trailer.

Before you back into the hitch, pull the release handle out to cock the hitch in the open position. As you back in and lightly tap it home, or all the way in, the handle will snap closed automatically.

The most important step is next:  Get out of the truck, walk under the front of the trailer and visually confirm the jaws or bar (depending on which brand of hitch you have) snapped all the way shut.

The very next step is to lock down the safety lock on the hitch.  This is critical, as the hitch — even when properly closed — can and will open unless the safety lock is in place.

My own experience with this came when I was moving my trailer just around the block to store it.  As I pulled up the driveway and cleared the crest of the hill, the hitch popped open and the trailer dropped out of the hitch.

I was very lucky as my truck was a flat bed.  I put a nice dent in the surface of the bed where the pin hit, but damaged nothing else.  Many pickup boxes have been ruined when a fifth wheel trailer drops, as it will crush the sides of the box.

As far as the likelihood of your hitch breaking loose on the highway… your breakaway brakes are supposed to stop it.  Unless you forgot to hook up the little cable.  If that’s the case, when the hitch opens up, you’ve got a runaway rig!

Always think safety first.  Don’t be afraid to check things over twice before you pull away. Take it from me. Been there, done that. Source: http://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2008/08/5th_wheel_hitch.php